We decided to go into the actual city of Bordeaux today, and then also back to the beautiful St. Emilion to buy some wine in their "postcard beautiful town". It was a nice day in Southwest France with the sun fighting off the clouds and mist - although upon arrival we thought the city of Bordeaux was nowhere near as charming as the wine country surrounding it. We walked yet another crowded urban shopping street and were getting cranky when Suzanne found the most adorable, and definitively French cafe, in the historic district near the famous Hotel de Ville and the Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux. Everyone's meal was perfect and we headed to St. Emillion.

For more on this must see town: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-%C3%89milion_AOC

At St. Emilion, Izzy and Maddy decided they were "touristed out" and decided to stay in the van, but Ben stepped up and wandered the small cobblestone streets and the wine shops with us while we tasted and purchased wine. And even though Ben was allowed to taste, he declined.

As much as we love red wine, we favor Cabernet's, and Bordeaux is a Merlot varietal region, but Suzanne found some delicious and spicy blends that we will take to Paris tomorrow!

- Mike

P.S. Now that we have been to Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Tuscany and Bordeaux, we can honestly say they are all spectacular, and that California should hold it's head up high as that area of our country is every bit as beautiful as European wine country - just minus a few hundred years and some castles and chateau's.

P.S.S. Tuscany reminded us of Northern California in its topography and vegetation, while the Bordeaux region is much more like northern Wisconsin or Michigan with rolling hills and deciduous, leafy trees. If fact while driving, the girls and Mom all commented, "This looks just like Michigan!". We can't wait to try some of our new wines tonight! Off to Paris in the morning and maybe even a stop at the famous prehistoric Lascaux Caves with the earliest cave drawing!

For less than the price of our needed two rooms in a moderately priced hotel, we rented an entire six-bedroom, completed renovated 200-year old French chateaux, an hour outside of Bordeaux, France instead. Complete with caretakers, vineyards, and a little (10-15 houses) village up the road. It is called the Clos-Castaing, and Suzanne found it, as well as most of our other apartments, on the international house rental website, Airbnb.com. She has done an amazing effort finding cheap flights, hotel rooms and apartment for this trip through her savvy and diligent web searching. And as her Mom, Grandma Linda, was a Travel Agent for a while back in the day, she comes by it naturally and honestly. :)

Izzy was worried that the chateau would have spiders, and Maddy that it was haunted. Ben worried about internet connection speed. I did too frankly - and about the hot water!

It was even right on a river (the famous wine country Dordogne), as was complete with a canoe and two kayaks. We tried them all, but the current was too strong, so we paddled around for an hour and gave up (what wussies!).

What was it like inside? Very comfortable and lovely, if only a bit chilly with the stone floors. It was often warmer outside than in, so we opened all of the doors and windows.

What a great place to spend a few days and learn about the rural French vineyard culture. It was a great decision in every way!

- Mike

When we first drove off of the highway into Barcelona, past the industrial section of town, then through the government high-res section, and finally to our apartment in a touristy area, all five of us announced, almost at once, "This looks just like Buenos Aires!". Right down to the cracked sidewalk tiles and frequent dog-poop bombs! The comparison made sense to us, given the Spanish heritage of Argentina?!?

Ah, the doppelgänger effect!

However, when we rented the scooter and Twizy (see previous post) and went around the entire city, we saw a much more sophisticated, well-taken-care-of, and artistic city. So sorry B.A., not to disparage you, as we know your on-going currency issues have really thwarted your efforts to keep up with wealthier nations, but although very similar, Barcelona has you beat. And also unlike Greece, where the European Union monetary and unemployment woes can be clearly see in he streets of Athens, in Barcelona, where Spain is experiencing almost as crippling of an economic situation, no signs of financial struggles could be found. The city has amazing streets, shops, parks, plaza's, museums, an incredible Olympic Village and even an amazing waterfront and beaches. Just, wow.

Too bad we only had a small taste of you Barcelona - so appropriate, just like your small plate tapas and pintxos. We'd really love to come back here and spend more time; there are so many more bites to take.

Off to Bordeaux and back to French culture!

- Mike


P.S. In Catalan, the regional heritage and language roots of Eastern Spain (and the Basque regions), "X" is often substituted for consonant pairing, especially "CH", so we saw many signs for "Xocolate" and "Xurros". Suzanne and I even had another hour-long date night where we skipped past the familiar Tapas (small plates) and went for the more mysterious Pinchos/Pintxos - self-served snacks on bread slices where you are charged "by the toothpick"! Mmmmm. Guess who had the smaller beer?!?

P.S.S. As we have experienced in many places, and again confirmed in Barcelona, there is really a " A Tale of Three Cities" in most major stops. Each popular tourist destination is really three distinct areas, and if you do not have a car, you are often not seeing the entire spectrum of the town. The "first" city is the actual tourist area, and only what most visitors see; the "second" is the extended inner-city neighborhoods where the hard-core urban dwellers and young hipsters hang-out, plus, off-the-beaten-path museums; and the "third" is the suburbs, Yes, most cities around the world have larger and more sprawling areas just outside of town, complete with IKEA's, Home Depot and Costco knock-offs, and newer housing tracks (and often look a lot like the U.S.). My point? Having a car is such a blessing as we can experience all three when driving, and it gives you a look at not only the most historic, and the deeply cultural, but also the modern commercial expansion of each famous stop, which is a nice compare-and-contrast exercise and gives a more full-rounded understanding of these cultures.

Here is a tip if your going to buy a Smart Car. Don't buy it. Buy a Twizy! They are awesome! Yesterday we rented a Twizy and a little scooter and drove around town. Izzy and Ben didn't want to come so I got to switch between the car and scooter. It was awesome. At one point we went up a hill and saw the Olympic Stadium and a view of Barcelona from up high. IT WAS AWESOME!

- Maddy

P.S. And if you can't afford a Twizy, then get a scooter.


Driving through Europe (and really every where we have been) we have seen all sorts of car, truck, motorcycle and scooter makes and models that we don't have in the U.S. And many are way cooler (and more design-y) than we have at home because they are cleverly built for much smaller spaces and roads - but the two that stood out were the scooters with full-coverage circular roofs, and then this 1+1 car concept from Renault (built in Spain) called the Twizy. The girls saw the Twizy and both instantly said, "Can we try that?!?" Sure, I guess, but how is that going to happen?

Well, what do you know? Suzanne and I are out walking in Barcelona and there it was - a Twizy rental business, each unit with built-in navigation tour-routes and GPS activated tour readings! And right down the block, a Vespa rental place too. So after signing away our lives in waiver forms, off we went, and we really did have a great time. What a fun way to see such a beautiful city. Maddy squealed with delight the entire time, declaring she couldn't decide which vehicle was her favorite...and got the full attention of both of her parents for four hours to boot.

What's a Twizy? - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renault_Twizy

 - Mike

P.S. Several people have asked me, "What is the hardest part of the trip for you?", and while dragging 6-months worth of clothes everywhere is a candidate, as is being around each other non-stop 24/7, but those pale in comparison for me to these two things: Having to feed the kids 4X a day while in airports, hotels, trains, apartments, Italian gas stations, etc. It gets exhausting and you have to really be resourceful and creative as a parent. And the other hardest? Seeing the entire world riding motorcycles while I am just stuck watching like a puppy with his nose pressed against the glass. Whaaaa! So when we got the chance to rent a Vespa, I was a happy boy for a few hours. And while it is a pretty far cry between a 125cc scooter and a 1150 cc motorcycle, I'll take it to tide me over. Summer motorcycling here I come...and now with a second backseat rider in Maddy, who not only wants a scooter when she is old enough, but also her own motorcycle eventually too. And how do I feel about that as a Dad?  Estatic! As long as she takes a safety course, always wears a helmet and works hard, saves her money and pays for her own bike...you go grrrrl! So, watch for us as you'll be seeing me and Maddy around town this year on a motorcycle for sure. And watch out for Maddy solo in eight years or so!

P.S.S. How many people know that Suzanne was also taught by her Dad to ride a motorcycle and at one time was going to get her own M-Class motorcycle license? She says she's over it now and has lost that fleeting desire, but who knows, maybe she'll join me and Maddy (and her Grandpa Bruce) in the future?

P.S.S.S. And who remembers that my "riding a motorcycle" was one of the few things that Grandpa Bruce actually liked about me when we first met? How is that for an ironic twist in American culture? Well, maybe not that unusual as he is a hardcore biker himself...and now my riding buddy.

Almost every country has it's most famous and tourist-favored holy shrines - and they are all typically large, opulent and with long, rich histories. And they are often the most visited places in that region (i.e. The Taj Mahal). Even the U.S. has a few like the Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine in NYC. In every country and city we have visited, the typical #1 - #5 top-listed tourist sites are holy shrines/churches/mosques/temples (and then Aquariums!?!).

Why is that? Fish have to swim, people gotta pray?

I have a theory (not too complicated or original I'm sure) it is because they are typically the best on-going record of the cohesive cross-factions of culture, history, politics, religion and architecture - all rolled into one multi-course meal; properly preserved and honored, and easily absorbed and understood by the old, the young, and even outsiders like us. And, of course, also a huge source of spiritual inspiration...and sinly "pride". :)

So, it was no surprise that the #1 site in Barcelona is also a Basilica, but we can guarantee you there is nothing like it on the planet. Nothing. And of course, given Spanish art history, it is breathtaking, unusual and more than a few degrees off-center of typical European expression.

They say it is a combination of Germanic neo-gothic, French Art Nouveu and Spanish Modernism...all blended in a mixture of arcs and non-90 degree angles with heavily nuanced organic and natural design elements. It is an array of design elements mixed in a blender - all with purpose, and "mostly" complimentary (there are a few things on the outside of the structure, that even to the untrained eye, looked "forced fit" - see professional criticisms below).

It short-hand (and crass terms), it looks like a Hollywood model-shop designer created it for some future, or other worldly utopian, Dune or Lord of the Rings type movie.

Describing Sagrada Família, art critic Rainer Zerbst said, "It is probably impossible to find a church building anything like it in the entire history of art"

It has its own rich and complicated history, which you can read here.

A few highlights for me though:
- It was started in 1882 and is still only 60% completed. It is projected to be finished around 2030, so a construction timeline of almost 150 years! At first this was unbelievable to me, but then I realized most of the forts and cathedrals we have seen (with the exception of the Taj) typically took 100 - 300 years to complete.

- While from the outside it looks like it is heavily under construction, in fact when you enter, it is a completely finished (and enormous) church inside. Very smart to add the largely decorative and non-functioning massive tower/spires last.

- The interior arches, columns and beyond-amazing ceiling all feel like you are in a marble forest and/or cavern of large trees, branches and hanging mosses made from stones. It is very organic and almost feels alive.

- The museum under the church is as stunning as the building itself with an enormous model shop where each piece (and even many drawn, but rejected plans) are both hand- and CAD-created in 1:10 and 1:20 scales. It also has the photo archives, original drawings as they progressed over 100+ years, plus the biography and life-and-times of the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí (1852–1926). Senor Gaudi is buried on-site, right below the main alter.

- It also has a fully operating and large chapel right under the main alter as well. It reminded me of when European immigrants (of means) wanted two kitchens - the formal Sunday kitchen upstairs and the workhorse kitchen in the basement for everyday use.

- The building design has had its detractors: George Orwell called it "one of the most hideous buildings in the world" James A. Michener called it "one of the strangest-looking serious buildings in the world", and British historian Gerald Brenan stated about the building "Not even in the European architecture of the period can one discover anything so vulgar or pretentious."

- The building's distinctive silhouette has become the visual iconic symbolic of Barcelona itself, like the Eiffel Tower is to Paris, and draws an estimated 2.5 million visitors annually. At 20 Euro's a head, it creates a sizable construction and maintenance budget

If you come to Barcelona, you will visit it. And if you are a "church chaser" tourist, put it on your list. Love it or hate it, you have to experience it.

- Mike


I will openly admit that I was moved when I walked inside this building. The outside is a bit of a mess with it's multitude of facades, scaffolding, cranes and tourists.  Inside is like a marble forest. The organic feeling of the columns and ceiling like leaves in conjunction with the stained glass windows was slightly overwhelming but created quite the scene for spirituality. 

I can't imagine finding my quiet place amongst all of the people, but I hope that the locals have a time that they can visit the space and enjoy it. 

I do think they have a bit of a racket going. This is the only holy shrine, fort, temple, church that we visited that is incomplete. Most of these places you visit once and check it off your list.  Even I said I might come back to see it again.  Makes easy work for the development office.

- Suzanne  

In order to lessen the 8-9 hour drive between Cannes and Barcelona, we picked a half-way point to stop and sight-see, and that was to be somewhere in (en) Provence. We had our choice of another larger city, Marseille (actually the second largest in France, who knew?), but it is fairly large and on the coast (which we just left), so we opted for Aix En Provence just 30-minutes north and more nestled in the rolling hills.

Provence is a spectacular rural region in Southeastern France that has been highly coveted since the first hominids walked upright and left Africa. The climate, the sea access, the natural caves and the vegetation have made it a highly sought after and often conquered part of the world. Some of the oldest tools and drawing of early man have been found here. And, as is the case in most of central Europe, it was first a Greek territory, then Roman Empire, then Roman Christian based. It has been invaded by the Arabs, the Turks and the Normans...and now the Wychocki's.

Currently, it is a place world renowned for its beauty, art, food, culture and relaxation. So what did we do while there? Enjoy all of the above including some needed museum-time at the permanent Cezzane exhibit. Paul Cezzane spent much of his career painting in Aix En Provence; although we could not drag the kids to see his original studio. I know it is killing Suzanne to be so close to all of this amazing art and not see more than a superficial view of it. We will have to come back to Europe for just a Mike/Suzanne "art museum trip" when the kids are older.

We did take in a few amazing walks through this low-touristy town, and even had a date night with the kids now being old enough to leave for two hours back at the hotel.

A relaxing and low-key stop, which was perfect, as after 20-weeks of living out of suitcases, we are starting to feel the drag.

Off to Barcelona, a big and bustling city where we hope to see more art and architecture even if we have to do some FFF (forced family fun).


- Mike

P.S. I swear we went to a museum. The new internet posting phrase "pictures or it didn't happen" doesn't apply here as there were no photo allowed in any of the galleries...bummer.

P.S.S. And speaking of beauty, the proud Dad in me can't help but appreciate how beautiful and handsome our lucky family is. All of the kids are growing so much and maturing both emotionally and physically on this trip. And none more than Isabelle Flora (Fleur). We even found a flower shop in her name-sake here, but she wouldn't pose next to it for us! :)


I know the Europeans are a bit more lax on their parenting rules than we are in the U.S. but it's taken some time to get used to. We started the trip in an apartment in Argentina and went everywhere with the kids. Then India where we couldn't leave them alone at all.  Then to different houses/apartments/hotels from Thailand to Australia to Japan where we tested the waters each time. We might run to the corner bar to grab a drink or take a walk in the morning before the kids got up to get coffee, but 'date nights' have been basically non-existent.  I knew this in theory when we planned the trip but the reality of it is much different. 

Now, five months later the kids are each a little older and have learned a few things.  One of the most important (aside from reading a subway map in Osaka) is how to order room service at a hotel.  Yes, I'm proud to say that all three of our children can not only order a hamburger over the phone, but they can communicate their specific requests in the appropriate foreign language based on the country that we are in at the time.  They may not get exactly what they wanted but something shows up at the door and they have learned to eat it. My work is done. I think Ben even knows to add the tip when he signs for dinner.

We tested this theory in Aix en Provence last week and Mike and I went out for dinner and drinks.  Yes, we left our three children in a hotel room in a foreign country to fend for themselves. We may have only been a mile from the hotel (at most) but it felt like a different city. Two adults enjoying a fabulous dinner and glass of wine in France.  Like a honeymoon or something :) 

Maybe Mike will take me dancing in Barcelona!!!!!

- Suzanne

We arrived in Antibes, France on a chilly night after an afternoon in Monte Carlo.  We knew the Cannes Film Festival was going on just a bit south of us but we didn't realize how close until everyone started calling it 'The Festival' as if we should know.  We pretended we did. We got settled into our new 'home' and I went burn a little extra energy in the fitness center.  On my way out I had the best surprise. In the lobby of our hotel I found an entire 19-piece 1930's New Orleans style band warming up for a show.  I think I was the only 'groupie' in the lobby in my gym clothes but I grabbed this little bit of video (the music is the best part so disregard the visual).

Turns out one of the band members grew up outside of Batavia and we chatted a bit.  Wish we could have attended the private party that they were booked for in Cannes at the mansion with the custom stage built over the pool but we had kids upstairs that needed dinner and we just couldn't swing it;). Next time.

We won't miss there next show in Chicago. www.vaudandthevillains.com

-Suzanne

When we planned our driving leg through Europe, I mapped out a clockwise circular-route starting in northern Germany going south, then west, them back up through Paris and ending in Amsterdam. How we were getting from northern Italy to Barcelona was up-in-the-air; all we knew is that we had to drive through "the South of France" - oh yeah.

So, what do you know - we land up in Monte Carlo, Monaco just as the F-1 Gran Prix race weekend is beginning, and then in the twin cities of Antibes and Cannes, France, right in the middle of the famous International Film festival!

Sometimes our laissez-faire planning style works out! (Nice French, oui?)

The wealth we have seen here, especially with all of the European millionaires (and Russian billionaires) coming in on their "Super and Mega Yachts" (yes, those are actual categories of boat) for these side-by-side events was amazing. I am not sure what kind of "culture" we are teaching our kids with this leg, though? But it is fun as an adult to see this once in your life. Definitely a mix of South Beach and Los Angeles, plus some Euro-trash thrown in. Lots of tight dresses, hair gel and cigarette smoke.

Culturally enriching...definitely not. Junk food for the commercialized soul is more like it. ;0

Off to Provence and Barcelona where we'll have to double-down on the museum tours to wash away all of the glitz.

- Mike

P.S. We also saw a number of $200,000+ cars down here, including a $2.3 million dollar Bugatti Veyron (which is Ben's favorite car - he was excited to see one in person as he saw it in the Guiness Book of Records). I learned that the Bugatti name was purchased by the VW Group about ten years ago and they are made in Stuttgart, Germany. The push to photograph that car was like a celebrity sighting!

P.S.S. Yacht lengths generally range from 10 metres (33 ft) up to dozens of metres (hundreds of feet). A luxury craft smaller than 12 metres (39 ft) is more commonly called a cabin cruiser or simply a cruiser. A superyacht generally refers to any yacht (sail or power) above 24 m (79 ft) and a megayacht generally refers to any yacht over 50 metres (164 ft). This size is small in relation to typical cruise liners and oil tankers.

P.S.S.S. (or shouldn't this be P.P.P.S.?)  And we didn't even feel dorky in our black minivan as that model and color is the official limo of the festival. Who knew what celebrity was riding behind our blacked-out windows? The next Bridgette Bardot/Izzy?

So, I'm supposed to write something here about Monaco/Monte Carlo (one of those is unnecessary considering that they are the same thing). We entered the country on a mountain and drove down it through streets that lead me to believe that the country is taller than it is wide.

When we got to the main square, we found out that the Formula 1 Monte Carlo Grand Prix was starting in three days, and the barriers were already set up. We had lunch in a cafe that made me feel bad in my sweatshirt and t-shirt.

We bought a 200-piece poker chip set in a casino shop near the main square (photos attached) that contains a nice case and nice chips but two cheap decks of cards. Still, it works. After that, we left.

I'm bad at endings. Goodbye.

- Ben

The main square in Monte Carlo is home to the Hotel Paris and the famous Grand Casino, which was completed in 1863 (I think that's the same year as the Gettysburg Address and the founding of our Thanksgiving holiday!)

We got a glimpse of opulent wealth, several Russian Billionaires, and the grand stands and video monitors being for the coming F-1 Gran Prix. What a spectacle that place is...and beautiful.

- Mike

P.S. Besides the ever-present knife shop visits, the poker chips were the most exciting thing Ben has seen on this trip to date.

P.S.S. As I am a bad poker player, if you ever want to come over and lust over our Monte Carlo poker chips, (and take my money), just propose a date, call your game, and save me a seat. You'll be richer for it! :)

The absolute best part of seeing the Tower of Pisa may not actually be seeing the tower itself.  The best part could possibly be watching the reactions of people as they come around the corner and see it for the first time.  Seriously. This could be an entire YouTube series. If you've been there you know that the tower is inside the walls of the old city. (See image above) To get to it you have to walk down a small market street and turn a corner. And boom, there it is. Even we had a surprised reaction.

We didn't notice this phenomenal until we were leaving the gates but it was priceless. College students hollering, Japanese tourists squealing, senior citizens gasping. I have never wanted my video camera and and extra hour of time more than at this moment. Priceless.

Oh, and yes, the tower is an amazing structure of marble and is leaning. See pictures above.

Swing by next time you are in Pisa. It's worth the detour.

- Suzanne


Totally agree with Suzanne, when you turn that corner and see the tower for the first instant, you audibly gasp! I know I did it, and that may have been a first on this trip, even with all the amazing sites we have seen. Then going back to the gates and watching and listening to others just coming in is a great experience of shared humanity.

Unbridled human joy at it's finest.

And yes, it is huge, very clean and magnificent. We didn't know what to expect and thought maybe a dingy little dirty tower in a dirty part of town (you just never know how much these cities can afford to preserve these sites) - but in reality it is on par with the Taj Mahal in many ways. When in Italy, you have to go see it - surprisingly bucket list worthy

- Mike

P.S. The other fun people watching part was all of the people (like literally almost ALL of the people - including Izzy and Maddy!) lining up their "holding up" or "pushing down" the tower poses. Hilarious!